MULTI-PURPOSE STAIN SAUCE

$1.00$15.00

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MULTI-PURPOSE CLEANER

Chemical Free Cleaner for Everything

Straight from Mother Earth

Utilizing super powerful natural sodas, salt &

100% natural, hand crafted castile soap.

Effective cleaning power without industrial chemicals.

Add a spritz of Hydrogen Peroxide for:

extra deodorizing, sanitizing & stain removing power.

ANCIENT CLEANING

The main reason “SOAP”, in all it’s ancient forms, came into being, and remained, is because:

the ingredients were basically considered debris or waste.

People through all history, even to today, endured intense & very regular cycles of poverty & starvation. They often could not afford to waste food on cleaning themselves or their surroundings.

But, if they could afford to use food,

it was the preferred method for centuries,

especially for skin care.

vinegar, oil, salt, tea, floral water, honey, milk, grasses.

Through history it’s been discovered that any substance, abrasive &/or absorptive, especially if it was alkaline or acidic, could be an excellent “cleaner”. Some better against microbes than others like:  sand, salt, straw, hair, pumice, urine (ammonia), juice or tea, fermented juice or tea (vinegar), dung or plant or wood ash (potassium hydroxide as we know it today) and many more.

Various “Bucking” methods, soaking laundry in ash (lye) or chamber lye (urine), are mentioned through out recorded history as the best laundry cleaning methods until the 1800’s when prepared soap became more widely available.

Left over fats from preparing food, combined with ash from the fire, comprise the basic “waste” ingredients for prepared soap in history, and now, via manufactured “fat & ash” = “oil & lye”.

SYNTHETIC DETERGENTS, on the other hand, have been around for only about 100 years.

Please see our “Chemicals to Avoid” section above

for contemporary hazardous chemical compounds often found in:

conventional hand soap, dish soap, dishwasher soap, laundry soap, shampoo, body wash, shaving foam, and anything that lathers.

The chemical ingredients in most of these products ARE THE SAME!!!

Including many labeled ECO or NATURAL or GREEN.

All Couxcoux ingredients are organic where certification is available, reliably sourced where organic certification doesn’t exist, sustainably sourced as much as possible, fair trade or Local to Grand Cayman. Organic certification does not exist on Grand Cayman yet. So, our Local ingredients are investigated thoroughly for safe farming & manufacturing practices.

CLEAN CLOTHES

sodium bicarbonate

sodium carbonate

saponified olive oil – castile soap paste

water

Essential Oils:

none

scent free

Potassium hydroxide & sodium hydroxide are the caustic alkaline foaming agents in LYE;

a critical ingredient in ALL products that lather.

100 years ago, potassium hydroxide was still created naturally by heating ashes in water.

Potassium Carbonate is found in almost all natural burnt substances.

When water is added and heat applied, Potassium Hydroxide (LYE) is the result.

When any fat/oil (animal or vegetable) is added to this potassium hydroxide saponification occurs, and a crude liquid or paste soap is formed.

This process begins the ancient history of all soap.

It is possible to create Sodium Hydroxide from natural Sodium Carbonate or Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) but, of course, these carbonates are mined straight from Mother Earth and were not an readily available ingredient in historical soap making.

STAIN SAUCE

CLEAN EVERYTHING

Tough on Stains, Grease, Grime & Dirt

GENERAL:

If your stain sauce seems too thick for your application: Add water by the teaspoon until you achieve the consistency and texture that’s most convenient and useful.

If your stain sauce seems too thin for your application: Add baking soda by the teaspoon until you achieve the consistency and texture that’s most convenient and useful.

FABRIC & CLOTHING STAINS:

Apply a small dab to stain.

Rub or brush in to loosen threads & stain.

Let sit for 30 mins.

Spritz with hydrogen peroxide and rub/brush again.

Rinse or wash as normal.

SOFT SCRUB:

For stove tops, bath tubs, showers, kitchen & bathroom sinks & counter tops, toilet surface, spot wash floors & surfaces, pots, pans, dishes ….

and on and on and on ….

Apply a small dab to wet sponge or cloth, or directly onto item.

Wet item if needed.

Wipe &/or rub item thoroughly until visible marks are gone.

Rinse well if possible.

Spritz with hydrogen peroxide & wipe/polish &/or leave to dry.

Add 1 tbsp to a 12oz spray bottle:

use for:

Hand washing dishes, utensils, cookery, bathroom & kitchen fixtures, toilet surface, floors, surfaces including tables, counter tops & cutting boards.

And pretty much anything else you can think of ….

Except RAW natural wood.

We don’t find this in our homes much. Our wood surfaces & furniture are usually coated in some way (urethane or wax) that would probably protect it from the alkaline cleansing power of diluted STAIN SAUCE.

Spritz the item with diluted Stain Sauce.

Wipe item

Spritz with Hydrogen Peroxide

Wipe Dry.

TOILETS:

Drop about 1/2 tbsp of stain sauce in toilet bowl.

Scrub with toilet brush.

Leave water to sit for 30 mins or until next needed flush.

 

 

 

 

Green Cleaning is almost ALWAYS a 2 step process.

Of course, rinsing is not always necessary depending how concentrated your cleaner is and what’s being cleaned.

But, if you’re not instructed to do 2 steps …. check your ingredients label.

Your product is probably not as “GREEN” as you thought!

USE VINEGAR RINSE OR SPRITZ

For green cleaning supplies that are mostly “sulfate or carbonate” based,

baking soda, washing soda, most synthetic soap & detergent (often including liquids)

it’s best to rinse with vinegar for sparkling clean, film free dishes, surfaces & fabrics.

Mixing baking soda & vinegar in the same bottle = geyser then plain water

USE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE RINSE OR SPRITZ

For green cleaning supplies that are mostly “oil & water” based,

all saponified soaps, like castile soap – natural or synthetic,

it’s best to spritz/rinse with hydrogen peroxide for sparkling clean, film free surfaces & fabrics.

mixing soap & vinegar in the same bottle = gunky glue

mixing soap & hydrogen peroxide in the same bottle = geyser

NEVER MIX VINEGAR & HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

THIS = Peracetic Acid

Vinegar & hydrogen peroxide are a great bleach alternative but ….

this also takes 2 steps.

In a pinch STAIN SAUCE can be used for:

LAUNDRY CLEANER & DISHWASHER CLEANER

Stain Sauce has a higher concentration of Natural, Hand Crafted Castile Soap but functions well for washing machines & dishwashers.

Add 1 tbsp stain sauce to appliance.

Wash as normal.

Use 1/4 of vinegar in the rinse cycle for extra sanitizing & deodorizing.

Green Cleaning is almost ALWAYS a 2 step process.

Of course, rinsing is not always necessary depending how concentrated your cleaner is and what’s being cleaned.

But, if you’re not instructed to do 2 steps …. check your ingredients label.

Your product is probably not as “GREEN” as you thought!

USE VINEGAR RINSE OR SPRITZ

For green cleaning supplies that are mostly “sulfate or carbonate” based,

baking soda, washing soda, most synthetic soap & detergent (often including liquids)

it’s best to rinse with vinegar for sparkling clean, film free dishes, surfaces & fabrics.

Mixing baking soda & vinegar in the same bottle = geyser then plain water

USE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE RINSE OR SPRITZ

For green cleaning supplies that are mostly “oil & water” based,

all saponified soaps, like castile soap – natural or synthetic,

it’s best to spritz/rinse with hydrogen peroxide for sparkling clean, film free surfaces & fabrics.

mixing soap & vinegar in the same bottle = gunky glue

mixing soap & hydrogen peroxide in the same bottle = geyser

NEVER MIX VINEGAR & HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

THIS = Peracetic Acid

Vinegar & hydrogen peroxide are a great bleach alternative but ….

this also takes 2 steps.

What Chemicals should you avoid?

from toothpaste, to soaps, to moisturizers, to cleansers, to hair spray & gel, to deodorant ….

USUALLY CONTAIN THE SAME CHEMICALS!!!

YEP!!! You wouldn’t eat your moisturizer.

But you kind of are when you brush your teeth.

Conventional & NATURAL Skin Care Ingredients that are:

NOT for your SKIN!!

WATER:

FIRSTLY,

VERY LITTLE WATER APPLIED TO SKIN ABSORBS!!

Especially in a lotion …. Most of the water in lotion evaporates before the skin can take it in.

This is why Natural Oils are so important, especially when combined with a little vegan wax.

These two ingredients form a natural, breathable, OCCULSIVE barrier to trap water in the skin.

This is where most of the water hydration necessary for skin comes from anyway …. Inside you!

SECONDLY,

IF A PRODUCT CONTAINS WATER …. IT WILL CONTAIN CHEMICALS!

Currently, there is no effective natural preservative to keep water from spoiling or molding. Mostly, this issue comes up after the product is unsealed for use by the consumer, but, if it has water …. it will have to have chemicals.

Unfortunately, WATER is the most common and cheapest “filler” for any packaged product you may consider buying.

THIRDLY,

SEVERAL OTHER CHEMICALS ARE REQUIRED,

regardless of how much, or how little, water is used:

-to keep unlike ingredients (oil & water) from separating.

-to keep ingredients from decaying until the advertised expiry date (often years).

-to prevent changes in viscosity and texture at wide temperature ranges (natural, unrefined oils are liquid when warm and solid, slushy or cloudy when cold) during shipping, storage, display AND consumer use. We are so used to this consistent texture that we often don’t understand that several additives are required to produce this effect.

SOAP

When we examine the ingredients in conventional hand soap, dish soap, body wash, shaving foam, shampoo, laundry soap, dishwasher soap and other soaps/detergents we find that:

FIRSTLY:

They are all nearly identical – face, hand, body, laundry, dishes

Likely not in the same concentrations, but the same chemicals are still listed in most of these products, if they are listed at all. All lot of our cleaning supplies do not list ingredients at all.

SECONDLY:

The first ingredient in soaps/detergents is almost always water.

Often between 75% & 85%, with very little, to:

NO, actual, true soap.

True soap is any natural, unrefined OIL saponified with Potassium/Sodium Hydroxide & nothing else.

True soap does not lather as much, and is usually a natural soft bar or paste unless diluted with water and/or thickened with salt.

True soap often is self-preserving because all soaps are quite alkaline dissuading microbe growth.

CHEMICAL DETERGENT, SURFACTANT, SOLVENT

formed from petrochemicals (sometimes oleochemicals) and sulphur trioxide, sulphuric acid and ethylene oxide.

Many are known hazards, linked to cancer, neurotoxicity, organ toxicity, skin irritation, and endocrine disruption.

Producing, manufacturing and distributing these chemicals, along with consumers washing them off into the water table and soil, causes severe environmental disruption.

sodium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate, ammonium laurel sulfate, sulfuric acid monododecyl ester, sodium dodecyl sulphate, alcoholethoxy sulfate, alkylbenzene sulfonate, alkyl sulfates.

If the foaming agent is derived from coconut oil, for example:

the name would be something like sodium coco sulfate or cocamidopropyl betaine,

and 100’s more.

In any conventional foaming product, including products labeled NATURAL, these ingredient groups are almost impossible to avoid.

We are also starting to learn that soaps, body washes, shampoo’s, foams and other alkaline cleansers:

soapy water =pH~10,

water=pH~7

skin = pH~5,

Play a substantial role in the chronic condition of the “skin microbiome equation”.

It’s established that gentle cleansers, for face & body, that do not alkalize, strip or over work our delicate acid mantle (a thin acidic filmy barrier on the surface of skin) allow the body environment to safely heal, sanitize & deodorize itself.

These gentle cleansers, generally do NOT foam, or foam very little.

Within this foaming wash conversation, we have to admit that:

“soap” is simply slippery.

It does not kill microbes or bacteria. Even anti-bacterial soaps & sanitizers have been proven mostly ineffective ….

Soap simply makes the skin surface slippery enough that microbes dislodge & rinse away down the drain. Sounds like any good oil, naturally emulsified onto wet skin, could easily do this job while preserving microbiome balance and assisting skin hydration.

 

PRESERVATIVES:

PEG = Dimethicone (PEG with any #) = polyethylene glycol conversion = an alcohol, suffocating silicone based polymer.

parabens, BHT, Tocopherol acetate (refined vitamin E derivative), Disodium and tetrasodium EDTA, Diazolidinyl and imidazolydyl urea, Parabens (Methylparaben, polyparaben, butylparaben, etc.), Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, Ascorbyl palmitate (a derivative of vitamin C), Benzoic acid, etc ….

There is several hundred different preservatives in use in skin care generally today.

Very few have been laboratory tested for safety in skin care individually, or in combination, or in accidental combination with other commonly applied personal care products.

For example: you’ve accidentally got toothpaste on your freshly moisturized finger that you now washed off with soap and re-moisturized before applying your hair styling product while possibly stirring your coffee with the tail of your toothbrush….

Have you just absorbed or ingested a quadruple (or more) dose of the minimum safe level of one of the above preservatives? …. PROBABLY!!

ALCOHOL PRESERVATIVES

Propylene and butylene glycols, adipate, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, denatured alcohol or alcohol denat, benzyl alcohol, glycerin, glycerol, etc ….

There’s 1000’s of alcohol compounds derived from multiple different oils and/or sugars, including PETROLEUM OIL (mineral oil, baby oil, vaseline).

Humectants: dehydrating deep tissue layers over time via law of connecting vessels or,

Alcohol compounds: straight up, just damaging & dehydrating.

Natural EXTRACTS: (alcohol or glycerin/glycerol) Sometimes work as cleansers & toners but are NOT for moisturizing ingredients.

All preservatives & alcohols, or similar compounds, are:

strong agents that damage or kill …. ALL CELLS …. not just “bad” cells.

They are NOT at all choosy. If it’s alive …. good human tissue or bad bacteria/virus …. Doesn’t matter!

NATURAL & SYNTHETIC SILICONE 

Provides a slippery & water resistant, emollient texture.

Like plastic, silicone can keep water in, but other debris that needs to exit the tissue can also be trapped, causing congestion, inflammation, rash and acne.

Silicones also don’t allow proper circulation of oxygen; suffocating and dehydrating the tissue.

But, worst, they don’t come off easily and the skin will struggle constantly to shove them off.

polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), Methicone,Phenyl trimethicone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone copolyomer, Cyclopentasiloxane …. etc!

All known & rated Hazards.

FRAGRANCE

FRAGRANCE AND PARFUM ARE NEVER NATURAL OR SAFE!

Perfumers that are dedicated (like me) to making safe, natural, wholesome scents will certainly let you know!!

Please feel free to view our fragrant & curative roll-ons within the HEALTH section of the homepage.

But, ingredients listed as “Fragrance” and “Parfum” or “Perfume” are a secret mixture of possibly 1, or 100, chemical compounds.  There is around 3000 chemical compounds in use today to give us the smells we want. It is said that about 75% of these are phthalates, known carcinogens & hormone disruptors.

Most of the fragrances we’re accustomed to smelling today DO NOT exist in nature except for “on the actual branch” so to speak!!! Many of these smells CAN NOT be “bottled” without synthetic preserving & alcohol ingredients.

Due to current labeling laws these combinations of possibly 100’s of chemicals, named “fragrance”, are considered TRADE SECRETS and do NOT have to be disclosed on the label as individual ingredients.

Acetone, ethanol, benzaldehyde, formaldehyde, methylene chloride, ethyl acetate, Isopropyl myristate, Monopropylene glycol, benzyl alcohol and many, many more. Synthetic musks are also common, potentially hazardous, ingredients.

More and more people are experiencing severe, sometimes anaphylactic, reactions to fragrance but are unable to avoid the particular chemical they are having trouble with because, they can’t find out what it is, or what other products it might be in including, food, laundry products, cleaning products, residential & commercial air diffusers, deodorizers & sprays etc.

Many of these chemicals are now considered as dangerous as smoking and second hand smoke.

These chemicals are difficult to avoid because “FRAGRANCE or PARFUM” is added to just about everything ….

food, skin care, personal care, body care, hair care, laundry products, baby products, cleaning products …. in the same to wildly different concentrations at residential, commercial, industrial & institutional levels.

Including products labeled NATURAL!

COLOR

IT’S NOT NATURAL!

Almost ALL added color is synthetically produced in our modern world.

Some of them are certified, some are batch certified, some are not certified ….

Some are regulated by the FDA …. Some are not like: Micas.

If it’s natural, and intended for skin care or food, it will have to have a written disclaimer except: when it’s certified or not, and regulated, but on the list, or not regulated. It’s confusing, I know. The point is enforcement is difficult and enforcement is NOT the FDA’s job.

Natural colors often co occur in nature with some dangerous compounds like: arsenic and asbestos. So, to avoid this danger, color additives are manufactured. This means that even natural looking, pale colors will likely have chemicals.

Vibrant, Pale and Dark natural colors can be produced in WATER and/or alcohol …. but, where there’s water …. there’s preserving, emulsifying, thickening & stabilizing chemicals. And, where there’s alcohol there’s cell damage or death.

Oils will not absorb color, or anything for that matter but, color additives can be suspended or emulsified into oil making it appear colored.

BRIGHT WHITE & CLEAR TRANSPARENT “COLOR” does NOT exist in nature!

Even white appearing flowers have specks of light grey, yellow, pink etc. So, if it’s a bright white, clear or transparent (like glycerin and silicone), it’s been extracted, filtered, refined or processed with some compound like bleach.

PETROLEUM OILS & REFINED or HYDROGENTATED OILS

Natural Oils can range from water thin to a cloudy slurry to a firm solid depending on their temperature and their base physical properties.

For example: natural coconut oil is a pale, yellow liquid when warm, a cloudy, grainy, even lumpy, slurry when cooling, and a creamy, firm, solid when cold.

Oils can be chemically extracted from any plant or animal matter, then further chemically refined to make them colorless, odorless, thicker, thinner, and/or always a consistent viscosity & texture regardless of temperature and conditions, with an almost indefinite shelf life or no expiry date.

Chemical refining provides a convenient, stable, base oil for dispersing into any product (including edibles) but removes many base nutritious, hydrating & healing properties of that oil AND can leave hazardous chemical residue in the product.

We have become so accustomed to this unnatural lotion/cream texture we forget the several chemicals required to produce the effect!!

INGREDIENTS LIST

PLEASE IGNORE THE FRONT ADVERTISING LABEL!!

IT’S OFTEN MISLEADING!

Even if a product is advertised as Natural or Organic, please take a look at the very tiny writing on the back label that lists the ACTUAL ingredients.

Under current law, even organic products are allowed a certain percentage of chemicals! Some of these chemicals can be dangerous and others are, just simply, not for skin. They’re for making the product look good, for a very long time.

IF AN INGREDIENT IS NATURAL:

It will be listed in its common name: coconut oil

Or Plant Genus: cocos nucifera

Most companies like to advertise that they advocate natural ingredients by listing both names:

coconut oil (cocos nucifera).

IF AN INGREDIENT IS NOT NATURAL:

It will be listed by its chemical name:

capyrlic/capric triglyceride or glyceryl tricaprylate/tricaprate:

These chemical names comprise a triester of coconut oil and glycerol:

Coconut oil is comprised of triglycerides. The triglycerides are 3 molecules fatty acid with 1 molecule of glycerol, from the alcohol family.

Intense heat and pressure is applied to coconut oil to make these triglycerides split apart (fractionate). The capric & caprylic fatty acids are isolated, leaving the other fatty acids out. Then, usually with a chemical catalyst (methylate or ethylate), they are reattached to the glycerol molecule, therefore changing the chemical composition of the oil.

This new manufactured oil is no longer coconut oil.

It will not solidify when cooling or cold, it will be quite thin, and may be tasteless, odorless & colorless depending on refinement methods and further chemical processes.

The main ingredient of this new oil, Caprylic acid with glycerol, while an effective antimicrobial for infection & fungus, it is drying and can irritate skin. Just like applying rubbing alcohol to skin that’s not infected.

Additional information
Weight .625 lbs
Sizes

per ounce, 10 oz Dispensing Bottle